A Constellation of Wines by Sean Thackrey
The wines are ranked in order from “must taste at least once” to “good, but expensive”. All are available for purchase or special order from New York’s venerable Sherry-Lehmann.
Sean Thackrey Orion Old Vines Blend 2004, $109.95/750ml
Orion is the wine that Sean Thackrey is best known for, and it was the best of the wines tasted. Since 1992 Sean has been producing this wine from organically grown grapes cultivated by St. Helena’s Rossi Vineyard, which was planted in 1905. Orion is also his smallest batch wine, with only 300 cases per year. Bright, clear jewel-like purple color. On the nose, classic spicy Syrah, with notes of black pepper and floral aromas of beach roses. This food-friendly wine is bone dry, with smooth, well-integrated tannins and a medium finish.
Sean Thackrey Petite Sirah “Sirius” 2004, $79.95/750ml
Produced with grapes from Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino—“Basically, any black grape out of the field that we don’t have another name for”. This inky purple, almost black wine was the most interesting of the five tasted. On the nose, aromas of black fruits (black currants, black cherry, blackberries) and dried apricots. On the palate, this wine is bone dry with challenging, rough tannins, and surprising flavors of banana, Concord grape, blackberry and black cherry, with a medium. A whopping 15.3% ABV, this challenging wine was an eye-opener but quite pleasurable to taste.
Sean Thackrey Aquila Sangiovese 2002, $64.95/750ml
First released in 2000, Aquila is also produced from grapes grown at Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino. This wine was the trickiest of the lot—if I had tasted it blind I would have sworn it was a Tuscan Sangiovese. Dark ruby in color with signature orange tints. On the nose, woodsy aromas of cedar and pine, with fruity notes of cherry and plum. Dry and medium-bodied on the palate, with flavors of dried cherries and a sappy finish. Food friendly for sure, the Aquila would pair well with a nice, big plate of Bucatini all’Amatriciana, fire-roasted sausages and crispy, griddled pizza (if you’re one of those people who drinks a $65 bottle of wine with pizza, that is).
Sean Thackrey Pleiades Old Vines N.V. Lot XVII, $32.95/750ml
“It’s always an improvisation.” A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Viognier, Mourvedre, Rousanne, Barbera and Carignane (!!!), this wine has only been in the bottle for two weeks! Clear, bright garnet in color, with a watery rim. On the nose, spicy notes of cedar, cherry, red currant and dillweed. Bone dry on the palate, with distinctive, sandy tannins. Flavors of red cherry, red currant and baking spices, with a spicy finish. This is a surprisingly light, easy-drinking, food friendly wine, with a cheerful personality in the glass. I recommend that everybody buy at least 1 bottle for educational purposes—it’s worth it.
Sean Thackrey Andromeda Pinot Noir 2004, $83.95/750ml
This single vineyard wine from Devil’s Gulch Ranch in Marin County is made from organically farmed grapes. Medium ruby in color with a pink rim. On the nose, foggy notes of violets, black pepper, tobacco leaf and smoke—once the wine warmed up, it smelled like cherry Twizzlers (for real). A classic Pinot Noir on the palate, bone dry with fruity, floral flavors. Well balanced despite the high ABV, with a long finish. This wine ranks last not for it’s quality, but because it’s price point is prohibitive—you can get other very good Pinots for less money (although this wine is organic).
Useful Links
Sean Thackrey
Terroir Wine Bar
Where to Buy: sherry-lehmann.com
Terroir Manager David Flaherty’s Wine Blog
Mind-Made Media’s documentary about Sean’s life and work.
